Category Archives: Miscellaneous

And here is the “catch all” category for stuff that doesn’t have its own.

Bow Making Outing – Part 1

by Woodsbum

This past weekend I met up with a few other guys and started a new project to build my first bow. The whole process is actually fairly easy and straight forward. Well, it was up to this point at least.

We used the following instructions to do our project: link but there were additional instructions at this link. The hardest part was actually finding the wood. I ended up getting a 10 foot chunk from Home Depot and cut the middle portion out. It is better than anything else I could find, but it is definitely not the quality needed for making a good bow. With a backing, however, it is usable.

The first step was to cut the wood to length. They recommend using the length of your “wingspan.” Basically measure from finger tip to finger tip with your arms outstretched. For ease of measurement, I just cut mine at 76 inches. This allowed me to divide it into 4 equal 19 inch sections. You can easily read the instructions that contain the measurements so I won’t bore you wit those details. I only suggest that you pick an overall measurement that won’t be a pain in the rear to actually mark out on the wood.

This is basically what we are building.

Bow we are building

Bow we are building

Here is a side view of the bow, tillering board and the rasp I was using to shape the wood.
Tools and bow

Tools and bow

You can see the tillering board, some of my junk in the background of the first picture, a couple blanks on the right side and a finished example of what we are building. The second picture really shows you the rasp to get for shaping the bow. I used this rasp and went mostly with the grain as opposed to the others going across the grain. My results were a rough shaped bow in about 2 hours versus the others not even having one of the 4 sides completed.

For those of you who want to make something all spiffy and nifty just remember that this is a basic bow. It won’t earn you any longing stares of envy from others at a shooting range, but it seems to be a great starting point to learn. In all reality, it isn’t that bad for something you are making yourself.

I do have a couple tips for you that I learned (the hard way) after shaving off the 2 ends of the board.

  1. Be really careful of your lines.
  2. Straddle the board to hold one end with the other end tied off/clamped down/etc.. This position gives you good working area and access as if it were a shave horse or something.
  3. Use long strokes with the wood. It keeps the sides much smoother and cleaner.
  4. Don’t rush.

Here is a good picture of the rasping progress after about 30 minutes. Granted, I got much quicker and better as I went along.

Bow being made

Bow being made

I only had a chance to work for 2 hours before I had to go back to see the wife before she left for work. Here is one end of the bow. The other end looks just like this.

Prepped end

Prepped end

There are more tools that I need to make to finish up this project. This is one of them: a scale and frame to attach the tillering board to.
Scale and frame to tiller our bows

Scale and frame to tiller our bows

I also have some more rasping to do. It will take a while to get everything done, but keep checking back for Part 2 of this build. Anything else I learn along the way, I will post up so you can learn from my mistakes.

This is a picture of all the books that Rick brought with him and has used to get to his current skill level in bow making. Several of these titles will be added to my collection eventually. This really seems like it will be a very addicting hobby.

Some books I will have to add to my collection

Some books I will have to add to my collection

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The H60 Firestarter

by Woodsbum

Being a complete gear freak has its benefits at times. I ran into a phenomenal piece of gear that I feel needs a post. During an outing with several BushcraftUSA members, I saw the absolute best firesteel I have ever seen. One of the people there works for a company that builds and sells the H60. It is absolutely incredible.

Let me start off by telling you a bit about the H60 itself. Here is a picture of what they look like.

H60 Firesteel

H60 Firesteel

They have a magnesium rod on one side and a normal ferro rod on the other. The handle is made from wood and it includes a striker that is attached via a leather lanyard. What makes this firesteel special are really two things:

  1. The quality of the product that allows it to produce the incredible sparks it can throw.
  2. The warranty.

Here is another picture of the H60 with an Izula-II for size comparison.

H60 and Izula-II

H60 and Izula-II

As you can see, it is fairly large. This design gives you ample amounts of magnesium and wood to use to get a flame going. I have taken the H60 and shaved off the magnesium and wood handle into a twig bundle (Apache match) and ignite the entire bundle with a single strike of the ferro rod. This thing throws sparks like a fiend.

Since I couldn’t catch a good picture of the actual rod sparking, I had to grab a bunch of other people’s pictures for this post. Here is a SMALL set of sparks that the H60 throws.

H60 tossing sparks

H60 tossing sparks

The guy who sells these had his son running around playing with one. The son was able to strike the ferro rod and throw a spark, NO JOKE, 10 feet. The two of them were running around throwing sparks at each other like it was a water fight. The distances that these sparks were going was simply amazing.

When I heard about the lifetime warranty on this piece of gear, I quickly purchased one. The H60 has a LIFETIME warranty. This includes the following:

  • Manufacturer defects
  • Wear from normal use

Yes, you heard that right…..  WEAR FROM NORMAL USE!!!

I have slowly gotten away from using a firesteel because I have gone through so many of them in the past. They wear down fairly quickly during my camping season and thus I picked up using flint and steel. I can find new flint/chert with relative ease and the steel strikers last forever it seems. Now that I discovered the H60, I have a great piece of gear that I can use when I feel extremely lazy and don’t want to blow an ember into flame.

The H60’s run around the $25 range and can be purchased through this link here. If you do end up getting one, please let him know that you found the information on this site. I won’t get anything for it, but it will at least let him know that people do love his product.

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APEX M&P Duty / Carry Action Enhancement Kit Review

by Gunguy

I purchased the APEX Duty / Carry AEK kit about a month ago. The installation was a pain in the ass because I did all the work on my kitchen table but the effort was well worth it. Keep in mind that you will not be able to install the Apex Ultimate Striker Block part of the kit if you do not have a bolted down vise or a SW MP Sight Mover. After you install the entire kit you will need a sight mover at the range so you can rezero your sights.

Before I installed the Apex kit the trigger on my MP9 was mushy and had a false reset.  After the kit installation the trigger was smooth and the trigger reset was pronounced. The trigger reset was a 100% better but it’s not as defined as in my Sig 229. The greatest thing about installing the Apex kit was that my groups at 50 feet were considerably tighter. You can see the before and after results below.

APEX Duty / Carry AEK

APEX_Duty_Carry_AEK
Before Apex AEK at Fifty Feet

before_apex_aek

After Apex AEK at Fifty Feet

after_apex_aek

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The Modern Survival Manual: Surviving the Economic Collapse

by Gunguy

The Modern Survival Manual is based on first hand experience of the 2001 Economic Collapse in Argentina. In it you will find a variety of subjects that the author considers essential if a person wants to be prepared for tougher times: -How to prepare your family, yourself, your home and your vehicle -How to prepare your finances so that you don’t suffer what millions in my country went through -How to prepare your supplies for food shortages and power failures -How to correctly fight with a chair, gun, knife, pen or choke with your bare hands if required -Most important, how to reach a good awareness level so that you can avoid having to do all that These are just a few examples of what you will find in this book. It’s about Attitude, and being a more capable person and get the politically correct wimp out of your system completely. I highly recommend it.

Surviving The Economic Collapse

Surviving The Economic Collapse

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Tactical vs Hunting – Stance and Form

by Woodsbum

After having taught numerous Hunter’s Education classes, hunted around those new to the sport, and worked with countless people that are getting ready to start hunting at the range, I have found that there is a definite pattern. Those students that have taken tactical shooting classes and stick to those stances are at a definite disadvantage in the field. The tactical stances allow for great forward and lateral movement. In a hunting situation, however, most movement is based around a pivot foot. The tactical stances do not seem to allow for that pivoting movement and thus limit the field of fire and flight tracking needed to be effective while hunting.

As a way to better explain how I came to this conclusion, let me give you several examples.

Example 1: Several of us went out dove hunting. All of us “old school” stance users had no problem in getting our limits within only a few hours. A couple of LEO were also out there and were using their “tactical” stances. They had no problem hitting the birds that were flying in line with the way that they were facing. When a bird crossed their path, however, they could not effectively track it without having to physically pick up both feet and move. The stance just was not effective when it came to that swing movement needed in bird hunting.

Example 2: Skeet shooting at the range. A couple of prior military and current LEO persons were just stacking the slugs into a target one on top of another. They were obviously quite proficient and had practiced this a lot. When the range swapped over to skeet, they were both completely unable to track the clay. Their feet were moving around so much that we started giving them a hard time. We told them to, “Quit dancing and just shoot the clay.” Both were less than 5/25 and they admitted that they were never able to get into a good position fast enough to shoot skeet.

Example 3: Working with new hunters in the field. It never fails that when I work with new hunters that those in the tactical stances can not hit flying targets effectively. One such outing I saw this guy hitting everything set in front of him with slugs or buckshot. Not issues. Once we swapped to bird shot and tossed something, he missed almost every time. Even when I tried to help him and correct his stance, the way that the arms are positioned in a tactical stance really hindered his ability to transition over to hunting type situations.

So everyone can see the difference, here is the stance I am talking about.
shotgun_shooting_stance_scheme

This stance is more squared off toward the target. Some people even square up completely with both shoulders completely perpendicular to the target. This disallows much twisting at the hips while keeping the firearm placed properly on the shoulder. It also does not allow for decent twisting motion because you weight has to be evenly distributed. You have to shift your weight, move a foot, and then redistribute your weight. Even the LEOs that I saw had to make that same movement to try and track objects flying across their path. This made their “swing” that is required for leading flying birds uneven and jerky.

A more traditional hunting stance is more like a boxer’s stance.
ch7_015_NJ

This stance allows the hunter to simply transition their weight to either foot and spin on the ball of their foot, thus smoothly tracking the animal during flight. Think of the movements that boxers make. Their movements are smooth, quick and they can easily track their opponent.

Now I know that not all people bird hunt or will bird hunt. The principle holds true with all types of game, however. The tactical stance disallows for decent twisting or sweeping type movements where game crosses your path. The hunter would have to twist more at the knees than waist for those wider, sweeping motions. Having witnessed it first hand on multiple occasions, it really is a difficult maneuver to properly sweep smoothly.

Here is your test: Pull out your trusty firearm and try it yourself. Get into one of the many tactical stances that are taught. Square your shoulders up so that your chest plate properly covers your vital organs in case you are hit. Then try and move in all the manners required while hunting. You will quickly agree with me that you suddenly become like a rook on a chess board. Great forward, backward and lateral movements, but you will have little sweeping movement. Next get into that boxer type stance that us “old school” hunters use. There is very little decent movement allowed except for sweeping motion. Forward and later is more of a crossover step or a shuffle. Not very effective for finding cover, but great for tracking game.

This leads me to my final conclusion: If you are a tactical type guy, have fun. Do your thing. If you do the tactical stuff for those SHTF type situations (prepper type stuff), you really need to include some hunting type education to be well rounded. Hunters in their “old school” stances are not going to be running up on something while firing. It would be more of a move, fire, and then move type situation to be effective. Either way, learn both and become effective with both ways to fire your weapons. You never know when you might have to adopt that goofy looking target stance to shoot a deer out at 700m while standing…..  Now there is one more to learn, so get out there and practice PEOPLE!!!!

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