Category Archives: Classes/Education

Classes and any sort of education, whether they are formal or informal, that scream for a few words to be written about them.

Quiver Safety

by Woodsbum

My father is on about every Facebook hunting page/group that exists and ran across this yesterday. He contacted the person that posted it and received permission to use the pictures and information for the bowhunting education classes that we teach. Since we use my site and much of the information on here as a reference during classes I am posting the information here as a quick reference.

From the story told, this lady’s poor husband was stepping on a rock when he slipped and fell down a 6 foot rock ledge. His arrows came out of his quiver and he was impaled in the hand and the leg. The one in the hand was the worst from what I am gathering at this point. Here are a few pictures of the xrays.

Xray

Xray

Xray

Xray

According to his wife, he had to walk out of the woods about a mile and half for her to come pick him up. He did try to pull it out, but luckily it did not dislodge. If it had, he would have probably bled to death. It cut the main vein that goes to the hand.

**********Medical Note************

NEVER pull out an impaled object. Stabilize it and transport the person/yourself as is. Many times your body will contract or close around these type objects so when you pull them out there is a distinct possibility of causing more harm.

**********End Note***************

This is what the poor wife had to see when she picked him up.

Ride Home

Ride Home

He did quite a bit of damage to his hand. The main vein to his hand was cut, he severed 2 tendons, and got some nerves. As you can see from the xrays, he got pretty lucky. The radial artery is right in that area. You can see it a bit better from these pictures at the hospital.

At ER

At ER

Arrow Removed

Arrow Removed

This guy is really lucky that he didn’t do more damage, cut his radial artery, or have to walk out further than he did. Even luckier for him is that his wife has a good sense of humor about the whole thing. She was joking and poking fun at the situation a bit in her post.

Although situations like this are tough and take a while for the wounds to heal there is usually a silver lining to some degree. This guy’s wife allowed us to use this story and pictures to teach others how dangerous hunting can be with improperly fitting equipment. His arrows FELL out of his quiver when he slipped and bounced down the rock embankment. Most people skimp and try to save money on their quivers. This shows how saving money on a quiver really doesn’t save much in the long run. Make sure you have a quiver with at least 2 arrow grippers like the Trophy Ridge Lite-1. I only show you this one because I use it and I couldn’t think of another one offhand that has 2 grippers.

Trophy Ridge Lite-1

Trophy Ridge Lite-1

And for those of you who were paying attention to the xrays, the broadheads he had were Muzzy.

Stay safe out there and keep your gear in good repair. No one wants you to end up tagging yourself instead of that Royal you were stalking for 8 hours.

 

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Kombucha

by Woodsbum

Ok….  Hang on a minute……  I gotta get my head wrapped around this:

People leave sweet tea out WAY too long, get some fuzzy crap in it, then clean it up and drink it? It is fermented and has a negligible amount of alcohol in it, but people still drink it?

Seriously?

Wow…..  For those of you who have never seen this stuff, the item I am talking about is called Kombucha. It is some fermented, for forgotten on the counter as I call it, and then cleaned up for something to drink. For those of you who didn’t know, this is similar to how vinegar is made.

There are a lot of people that brew this stuff at home. I guess the process is fairly easy and can be done without too much work. There are even constant Kombucha brewing kits that allow you to keep it going on your counter as you drink off the soured stuff, I guess. To be honest, I have never met anyone that is into this stuff and I have only tried it once because the bar I bounce at suddenly got a batch on tap. Yup, I drank it before I knew what it was.

The brew kits are about $54 to $80 from Amazon. From what I can tell, the kit has the jar, tea, some mesh bags for the jar, some sugar, and the mold that you use to ferment with. There are advanced kits with smarter mold from what I can tell that add to the cost.

So here is the reality of the juice: All evidence of this stuff being beneficial is anecdotal at best. Some people love it, while others get sick off it. There were some studies done that proved that the introduction of harmful bacterial is very possible while the tea grows mushrooms on your counter. This isn’t 100% guaranteed in home brew scenarios, but it is possible. Other than that, there is no real evidence that it truly is beneficial.

My take on it is simple. If you like sour and funny tasting tea that you don’t know whether it is truly doing anything good for your body, then go for it. I like tobacco pipes, so I chalk this up in the same category. It might be harmful, but it might also be helpful. It all depends on your perspective. The fact that it isn’t a booze does make me a bit more skeptical. At least my fermented molasses has been boiled and sits at 40% alcohol by volume….  Just saying.

So have some fun if Kombucha is your thing. For those of us who had no clue what the hell this $4 bottle of crap was, I have enlighten you a bit. Happy drinking or choking down vinegar, people!!!

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Gutless Field Dressing

by Woodsbum

Here is a great video that shows how to field dress an elk in less than 10 minutes via the “gutless field dressing” method.

If you are wanting to save the hide to tan out, then this would NOT be the method to use unless you wanted a lot of small chunks of leather to work. I personally fight with the animal so that I can tan out each and every hide I collect. The leather is then used for various projects I have throughout the year.

For those that are deep in the woods and just need to get the meat out, I think I would definitely recommend this method.

Good luck and happy hunting this upcoming season!

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How I Use a Lanyard Hole

by Woodsbum

Many people have different uses for lanyard holes on a knife. This is how I use a lanyard hole more often than any other.

Especially with bushcraft knives, sheaths are made to cover most of the handle. There is usually just a little bit showing to allow you to pull the knife out. When you have large hands or are wearing gloves, this can be a pain in the rear end to deal with. It is easier than many other retention systems such as snaps, straps or toggles. Here is how the normal bushcraft knife looks in its sheath. This pictures does have a leather lace started in the lanyard hole.

SPL Knife in a Skab Leatherworks sheath

SPL Knife in a Skab Leatherworks sheath

As you can see, there isn’t that much available handle to get bear sized paws on. I build myself a leather “toggle” as I call them. This is what it looks like when I am done.

Ready for use

Ready for use

As you can see in the pictures, I not only have a good deal of leather to use in pulling the knife out of the sheath, but I can also use that leather to allow me to choke down on the handle for chopping. Since it slides to create a larger loop if desired, I have also been known to wrap my wrist so I can loosen my grip when carving or processing firewood. Although many of you see this knot and already know how to tie it, I figured I would give those that don’t a little tutorial.

The first thing I do is pass the lace back in upon itself to make a loop. It should look like this.

The start

The start

I then wrap the free end around the bottom of the loop to build something similar to a noose. When you get the desired number of wraps just pass the free end back through the top of the loop and slide everything together to make a tight knot.

Start of the wrap

Start of the wrap

Make sure you keep everything tight and slide the free ends down upon itself to make the cleanest knot possible. You don’t want the knot coming loose.

Finished

Finished

I have seen people put epoxy over knots like this, but I don’t recommend it. If you keep everything tight and clean there should be no issue during use. Sometimes knots do slide loose. If that happens to you, then just retie it. It really isn’t a big deal.

Over the years I have seen a multitude of different knots used. It really doesn’t matter how you put this together, in all actuality. The big thing to remember is that the lanyard hole on a knife can be used. So many people just ignore them and complain when they have problems drawing their knife or with their knife slipping while chopping. Remember that these knifes are tools like any other tool. Use them and their features as intended when needed.

Good luck!!

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EMP and HAM Radios

by Woodsbum

This forum post was sent to me the other day. It covers the science behind EMP and Ham radios. The way that it is presented and all the science behind it are actually quite well presented.

This link is from a post on AR15.com.

****************************************************************************

So a whole lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth has occurred lately over in prepper land about EMP. I attribute this mainly due to survivalist authors looking for some easy national/global catastrophe scenario to hook into without really having much if any understanding of it. I won’t criticize specific books as some are more accurate than others, but the net result is there is a TON of disinformation out there on EMP IMO.

I am not an expert, but I am literate and do have a few letters after my name and I am an amateur radio operator with a basic understanding of physics and electronics. There are likely people on this very forum that know a shitload more about this than I do, but since no one has stepped forward to do this I’ll take a stab at it, and if those knowledgeable individuals want to correct anything I post along the way please do so. My main source of information is the following document prepared at ORNL which I will reference, since they are the experts, not me.

Big long detailed report by actual experts

So to start with:

We are talking about a very specific phenomenon known as E1 HEMP which is generated in the first few nano-seconds of a nuclear blast. This will generate a large electromagnetic field over a wide frequency range, but the worst from about 1mhz or less to about 1ghz where it really starts to drop off (Page 2-7). It is also very similar to a what happens during a lightning strike (which is actually more powerful) so a lot of measures that help with lightning strikes can also help with E1 HEMP.

One thing to clear up E1 HEMP is mostly yield independent. You don’t need a huge nuclear device to generate it, the examples in the book are 500kt (2-11).

What determines the coverage of an EMP is its height above ground, obviously the higher it is the more it affects. However the higher it is the weaker it is. The “optimal” height above ground is typically less than 100km, in their example 75km is optimal. Total coverage at that height is about 800-1000km (2-14). So it’s a fairly large are, but not the whole US by any stretch of the imagination. Also, what isn’t covered by any of the models used in the study are local terrain effects, like shadowing or reflection. These will be important locally however. So if you are in a valley and “can’t” see the nuke at 75km high, you will have some protection.

The next thing to get an idea of is how “strong” the E1 HEMP is. As with any sort of electromagnetic phenomenon it follows the inverse square law. So that means it gets weaker the further you are away from it very quickly. For comparison they use an EM field generated by a FM radio station for comparison. At 1 mile from 10KW transmitter, the peak field is .68V/m, a peak field at ground zero (directly below the nuke) will be 50,000 kV/m (its a lot), however since this falls off very rapidly with distance, average exposure will be 6.21 Kv/m (still a lot, but its not 50,000 Kv). The example states that a 10cm conductor at ground zero (50,000kV) will have an induced current of 5kV. So using the 6.21 kV average field that same conductor will have an induced charge of 621 Volts (2-35).
You can see this effect on their charts 2-29. If you have the nuke over Omaha, it F’s up Omaha, but the effects near Chicago, Denver, or Dallas are fairly minimal only .5% of the energy in the 10-100mhz range makes it out that far.

I mentioned frequencies earlier and that is both significant and important. The highest energy range is 1-10mhz. So as HAMS you should understand that means it covers the 160-30m bands the most and then drops off as it approaches UHF frequencies. It’s the wavelength that’s the concern. So most of the energy in the E1 HEMP will want to couple to things of a similar wavelength just like a radio antenna. So its typically things like cabling attached to devices (antennas, power cables etc.) that is the major concern (2-35) So unplugging your radio from the antenna is a very good idea if you are worried about this (2-38). If the device is powered chances of damage are higher (2-36), there are also other post nuclear blast effects, TREE effects (radiation) that can also damage electronics but these aren’t E1 HEMP.
When it comes to shielding against EMP, there are a lot of things discussed, but how E1 HEMP couples to things is very important and more importantly difficult to predict (2-37).

So things that EMP will couple very well to are going to be metallic things that are 30 meters long (10mhz) and longer. So power lines, telephone lines, railroad tracks and the like. Most of the report is focused on what exactly is going to happen to the electrical grid and telecommunications, because that’s where the largest vulnerability is (2-45). And ironically enough high voltage power lines aren’t actually super problematic since they are designed to withstand lightning strikes, and EMP coupling doesn’t really scale past 1km or so.

Peak current on a power line.

Peak currents on a 5M long vertical antenna (below)

EMP and HAMs
What about the stuff you as HAM care about, a radio for example… First of all many devices, and especially radios are shielded against EMI already (2-44), which isn’t exactly the same as E1 HEMP, but it can help, there are often RF shielded modules in most radios. As I mentioned earlier, the best thing to do is not have the radio connected to the antenna when not in use, and I would argue have the antenna feedline grounded. In fact there is a huge amount of similarity between E1 HEMP and lightning strikes, so all that stuff the AARL tells you to do when constructing a shack is pretty useful when it comes to E1 HEMP.
There is a lot written about faraday cages Wiki, but I think this must be placed in the context of the frequency range you are talking about (look, they have big ass holes sometimes). The principle of waveguide cutoffs is a good one to consider (2-42), your faraday cage, and lets use the example of a metal trashcan, is probably a good and cheap EMP defense, first off its much smaller than 30m, so that big pulse isn’t going to couple to it too well, but some of the energy will be at the 1m wavelength, but that’s pretty far down the slope of the energy curve so there will be some coupling. Well what about holes or small gaps in the trashcan, yes it helps not to have them, but looking at the frequencies that will get through a 1mm gap is a 300GHZ, well above the energy generated by E1 HEMP which mostly drops to zero by 1GHZ or 300mm or about 11 inches. Also the trashcan is made of relatively (thick) metal which it needs to not be permeable i.e. skin depth (2-40) and why I would seriously doubt that ESD bags marketed for the purpose would actually be effective (no skin depth).

Myths
Finally there is a “myths” section in the very last appendix that will likely be helpful.
Cars dying: small fraction is possible (turns out your car will act as faraday cage if its made of metal) and cars are EMI shielded
Wristwatch dying: Too small to be affected by E1 HEMP.
Electronic devices that are turned off will likely fare better (true)
Conductors. Shorter is better since it will couple less with the EMP.

Conclusions
So, is EMP a viable existential threat? And the answer I think, is that its really hard to say. I think the idea of a 1 bomb EMP taking out the US is pretty non-sensical. However a 1 bomb scenario could still do significant damage to localized areas i.e. a large metro area, or for example the northeast united states. And as is mentioned in the report, EMP is largely yield independent, so even a fairly reasonable 500kt weapon could do a lot of damage. A bomb detonated above say NYC would likely take out Boston, NJ, DC etc. and the associated infrastructure. That being said, a coordinated strike involving several warheads detonated roughly around the same time could in fact take out most of the US power grid. As mentioned in the report the primary vulnerability is the power grid and telecom systems, since of course antennas will be connected to radios when the bombs go off. Smaller electronic devices are primarily vulnerable if they are plugged in at the time since the power cords can couple to the EMP and produce high voltage. Protection against EMP is a faraday cage, and probably the cheapest and best option IMO would be the famous metal trashcan example. Alternately if you need something smaller an Ammo Can would probably work just as well.

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This guy really does do a great job explaining how EMPs will affect electronics and HAM radios. It actually makes me do some thinking about how I should plan for possible EMPs for such equipment as my motorcycles and my truck. Since EMPs are not just isolated to high altitude nuke blasts, preparing for such phenomenon is probably not the worst idea. Considering how bad my luck is I should be planning for a lightening strike that melts the ECM in my old Dodge. I could probably get enough parts from the junk yard to cover me for less than $200.

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