Category Archives: DIY Projects

Garage born and raised projects that are done because no one else seems to be able to build it like you would. In another words, you did it yourself and it rocked!

Vehicle Air Conditioner Repair and Service

by Woodsbum

Seems like I have been spending about 75% of my free time repairing vehicles as of late. This last weekend was not much different. I had to do some repairs that required me to pull vacuum on my air conditioning system and refill it. Since I seem to be the only person I know that has ever successfully fixed their own A/C system I felt inclined to include a few videos here to help other people out a bit.

This video is about recharging their A/C unit. You will need a manifold that can be picked up from Harbor Freight for about $50 when they go on sale.

The other thing that goes wrong with these systems is associated with the condenser. Here is a video that teaches you how to clean your condenser and get your A/C back in shape for summer.

Although this is a bit of a departure from my normal posts, I get a lot of questions about A/C. Getting the tools and spending some time under the hood of your vehicle has saved me thousands of dollars throughout the years. Considering how easy it is to find videos that explain how to DIY, there really is no excuse as to why you can’t do things at home. Have some fun, save some money, and spend that money on new toys!!!

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Transmission Replacement for Dodge Ram 1500

by Woodsbum

This post is a bit of a departure from my norm. Over the weekend I had to replace the transmission in my Dodge Ram 1500 4×4. Unfortunately, I found that there are very few videos online that are specific to the type of transmission I have or year of truck I have. To put it mildly, I was hunting and pecking a lot. To help anyone else that has to do this swap, I decided to add a few tidbits of knowledge that I gained while doing this job.

  1. Make sure to take out the 4 engine mount bolts on the driver’s side. I am referring to the ones that actually bolt to the block. There is a bracket that the frame engine mounts bolt to that has to be loose enough to pry out of the way for the transmission to make it past. This bracket also attaches to the front of the transmission (same side) by 2 bolts.
  2. Remove the transfer case. You will be lacking about 3 inches of room to be able to pull the transmission and transfer case as a single unit. To get to the bottom bolts of the transfer case, you do have to pull the cross member and transmission mounting brackets.
  3. Transmission jacks are very nice and almost required. Don’t assume that you can strong arm it or just use a couple of floor jacks. The problem is that you have to turn the transmission a little and then twist it back into position to miss the engine mount bracket.
  4. There is an inspection plate right behind the oil pan. It is held on by 4 bolts and the transmission actually bolts onto this pieces as well. Make sure to take it off to bolt your torque converter onto the flywheel.
  5. Don’t listen to any of the old Chevy guys that say that you should just put the torque converter onto the transmission and slide it all in as a unit. You will end up dropping the torque converter several times and probably get hurt. Even though it is hard no matter what way you do it, just bolt on the torque converter and then slide the transmission shaft into the torque converter from there.
  6. There is a metal plate that goes around the whole bell housing that likes to slip while trying to place the transmission. Don’t let it slip down a hole on the driver’s side. It will try to and loves to make your life miserable. Don’t let it.
  7. The wires and loom at the back of the engine will also get pinched if you are not careful. Just move them out of the way because any use of zip ties WILL cause you to blood your knuckles up while trying to get the wires loose after the transmission is installed. Don’t ask…..

I should have taken some pictures or video of the whole process, but I was more interested in getting the transmission installed. These tips I gave you above will really help you out while doing the swap, however. All other aspects of the swap are fairly straight forward.

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Painting an AR – Part 2

by Woodsbum

This is the second part of my AR painting experiment. If you did not see the first part, you can check it out here.

Painting and AR – Part 2 is about the actual painting process as well as what I learned while actually painting on the camo pattern. This was actually harder than I had anticipated or realized it would be.

As a stencil, I used these that I found on Amazon. They are designed for airbrushing and the pattern actually looked really good when painted. I did find a could things out regarding these stencils, however. When painting with them it is necessary to block off other parts of the stencil that you are not using. For instance, if you want the middle cutout you have to block off all the other cutouts on the stencil. This was a bit of a chore to deal with due to the paper “bib” I made to protect from over spray made the stencil a bit bulky. It also caused all sorts of build up of paint in and around the actual stencil. By the time I was done with each cutout I was almost scraping off the additional layers of paint so I didn’t smear or drip in unwanted areas.

I did realize quite quickly that the easiest way to fix you mess ups was to fit a portion of the stencil over the messed up area and just paint over the spot needing touch up. It is not necessary to actually match up the stencil to the exact shape you just painted. The new lines just add additional shape to the colored camo splotch. While painting, I found this to be an all out lifesaver when I messed up.

Here is a quick couple of pictures of both my progress and the layout of my painting area.

Painting area and progress

Painting area and progress

I painted on the back of my truck and used some butcher paper as the protector from over spray. At the top you can see a section of my stencil and how I covered up all the unused sections. The next picture will show a bit more.

More of my working area

More of my working area

Notice how I used masking tape and printer paper to cover the unwanted stencil designs? This helped a lot because most of the extra paint came off with the tape. I only had to scrape a little off the edges when swapping stencil shapes.

As you can see I also covered up the rubber control section of my Vortex Strikefire 2. I did this so that I would not have a lot of paint chipping off the rubber or getting on everything after it dried. Paint on rubber just seems to take forever to dry. You can also see the paper that I inserted between the handguard and the barrel. This will give it a really nice look when done.

Masking job

Masking job

When painting, I found that I put the stencil as close to the rifle as possible and did short little bursts with the spray can. This did increase the potential for runs and curtains in the paint, but it drastically reduced the amount of over spray that I had to deal with. The lines were much tighter and more defined using this method. I also found that using the tan as the base coat really lightened the overall camo pattern. If I had used a light green and then painted the other splotches on, the overall affect would have been a much darker camo pattern. I think this will work quite well as a pattern to span most environments. If I need to add a little burlap to darken it as needed, this will give me the most range in environments.

Here is the final pattern from the right side of the rifle. I took this picture before I unmasked everything so that you can see the difference that the dark barrel makes with the pattern. I would also like to point out that I just painted over the dust cover (closed) to help keep a nice pattern. When the dust cover is open, there is a black hole that blends right in. We used to keep the dust cover closed while in the field to lessen the amount of cleaning we had to do, so this is how it will be most of the time that I carry it.

Finished, but still masked

Finished, but still masked

Barrel unmasked and pattern from front. The additional splotch on the front of the flip up cover helped a lot to break up the front of the rifle. Also, you can see how keeping the barrel black really helped with the camo pattern as well. It gives it a bit more depth.

View from top

View from top

So you can see how well the black, rubber controls on the optic blend into the pattern and how the black barrel showing through the handguards also helps, I took a picture next to my truck. As you can see, the tire and rim actually show through the handguard. This will also help with the camo pattern.

Finished camo

Finished camo

The final picture I have for you is where I just tossed in onto a shrub in my front yard. Although it sticks out a bit, I think it will span quite a few types of terrain. Adding some burlap will definitely help in more green and forested type areas, but this will definitely be better for drier areas than a dark green or black rifle. The black blob effect is very visible from a distance.

Tossed in a bush

Tossed in a bush

I still have another AR to paint once the rest of my parts arrive. I will be doing it a bit different than this one just to see how the light green base works versus the tan base. It is also my SPR type rifle, so the larger silhouette will definitely need more middle of the road type base color to keep from either glowing or blobbing respectively.

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Painting an AR – Part 1

by Woodsbum

Recently I was the recipient of all sorts of garage dwelling goodies such wood stain, spray paint, and a rifle painting kit. To ensure that this rifle painting kit did not go to waste or possibly go “stale” I promptly started getting read for a home camo paint job.

What I have done is broken down the process into two parts. The first part will be based around the materials needed, color schemes and the base color I used for my paint job. The second part will be the actual painting process and what it all looked like after I was done. You can find part 2 here.

To precursor this whole project I wanted to establish the basis for my decision to paint my new AR. The reality of the situation is that I am more of a traditionalist when it comes to firearms. It wasn’t until recently that I got into modifying or upgrading any firearms that I own. Even more surprising is that until recently I really wasn’t too into tactical firearms or gear at all. Most of my holsters are leather and most of my backpacks are canvas. Although I have a lot of gear from my time on Active Duty, I really have never been one of those “tactical” guys that owned any high speed gear that you see the “tactical” guys running around wearing. An old LBV (Load Bearing Vest) was actually the most “tactical” thing I owned until recently so camouflaging a rifle to keep it from standing out is truly uncharted territory for me. Thanks to Gunguy for getting me more into this whole world. I thank you, but my bank account and wife probably do not…..  Just saying……

Back to the project…..  Here are the materials that are needed to complete the paint job:

  • A rifle to paint
  • Paint. I feel you should get an actual paint kit that is made to adhere to firearm coatings. The one I received was from LBX Tactical.
  • Masking tape. The stuff I got was from Home Depot, but I linked to some that is very similar to what I used.
  • Stencils. You can use vegetation or homemade cutouts, but I opted to get something a bit nicer. The paint kit from LBX Tactical actually comes with stencils, but they are a digital pattern. All my gear is Multicam. This presents a problem because I don’t want to have color clashing or pattern explosion issues…..  The fashion police might come arrest me because EVERYONE knows that being fashionable while tactical is a definite must!
  • Heat gun to dry your paint.
  • Wire or something to hang your rifle from during painting and drying.
  • Beer
  • Break parts cleaner or something to prep your rifle.
  • Paper of some sort to assist with masking and preventing over spray.

Once you get your materials all consolidated and ready for use, the first step is to drink a beer while you clean the surface of the rifle you are going to paint. I used brake parts cleaner to get rid of the oil and residue that might have been present. Once the brake parts cleaner dried, I wiped the rifle down with a rag to remove any droplets or residue. While it all dried, I finished my beer.

The next step is to get another beer and start masking off your rifle to apply the base coat. I removed the optics from mine so I could get a good coat of paint on the entire upper. I also removed the stock so I could paint the entire buffer tube. The parts that I masked off were:

  • Barrel. The barrel gets hot and I didn’t want the paint to end up bubbling or burning off after use. I also like the look of the black barrel sticking out below the keymod rail.
  • Charging Handle/Bolt Carrier. I actually removed the BCM charging handle and just taped off the bolt carrier. This way I could paint the back part of the upper with ease as well as keep the nice charging handle looking nice. It gives a nice contrast to the rest of the rifle, in my opinion.
  • The controls for the optics.

Once this was all taped off and ready for paint, I did a light and quick first coat of paint. When painting, many people have a tendency to get an overly thick coat on their first pass. This actually is a bad thing because it causes too thick of a layer that has not cured or bonded to the surface properly. Complications such as eventual chipping, runs or curtain potential is all increased due to a thicker coat applied in a single pass. It also helps to keep a beer handy while doing all this.

After several coats of paint, the entire base coat was finished. I also used the drying time between coats as a beer drinking opportunity. This is also vitally important to the project so that you get ample time to relax and enjoy this project.

Once I had completely painted the rifle I hung it up on a wire and used a heat gun to ensure the paint was not only dry, but bonded properly to the rifle’s surface. After inspection I did realize that I needed to repaint some areas, such as the area of the lower that lies beneath the safety. At first I had forgotten to move the selector to “Fire” and paint where the lever masked the lower. I also had to touch up a couple spots around the sling swivels and single point attachment.

Again, don’t forget to apply heat to the rifle after you paint it. Think of this process no different that what is done to a car after painting. It is put in a warm garage to almost “bake” the paint onto the metal. The same concept works here. The paint must truly heat up to adhere to the rifle properly.

Here is what the rifle looks like with the base coat applied.

AR with base coat

AR with base coat

As you can see, the black barrel beneath the keymod rail looks kind of nice. Add the still black charging handle and it really gives it a bit of class to the job.

Here is the rifle from a little different angle. Notice how well the color blends into the rifle. This paint did a wonder job of adhering to the rifle to make a solid base for the camo pattern. I was quite impressed with the paint in the kit. The real “hero” here, in my opinion, is the heat gun that I used between coats. I could see the texture of the paint change to really match the texture of the receiver and hand guard when heat was applied. It evened out and really seemed to “melt” into the rifle’s finish much better.

As you can see, I did get some over spray inside the hand guard. I am now sure how I plan on fixing this. I have considered just getting a spacer, but might just mask it and spray on down the barrel to get the inside of the hand guard. So far I have not made any decisions.

AR base coat

AR base coat

This weekend I am going to use the stencils and finish up the camo pattern. Check back on Monday for that post. My goal is to make something that looks very similar to multicam and blends well with my other gear and my surroundings.

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Low Cost AR 15 Build

by Woodsbum

A couple of weeks ago I ran across some $50 stripped AR 15 lower receivers. Since I already had one that was set up similar to an SPR, I thought it would be nice to do a low cost AR 15 build with this one. The lower is from Anderson Rifles and I went shopping online for some good parts deals to complete my build.

As a disclaimer, I did have a few parts already. This meant that I did not have to buy a buffer tube, buffer, spring or stock. I also had an old milspec trigger group and handle. Total this saved me about $60-$70, so keep that in mind as I go through this build.

First thing I went looking for was a lower parts kit. This landed me on Red Barn Armory’s website. What I liked about their site was that I had the option to build the parts kit and upgrade or leave out parts as needed. Because of the parts I already had, I got the rest of the lower kit and even upgraded my pins as well as added a Magpul sling attachment point for $27. Total price to complete my lower was $135 with shipping.

I then went looking for some upper parts. Since I was more interested in cost than I was anything else, I investigated some complete upper builds. The best deals I found were on the Daytona Tactical site. I found a complete upper (no BCG or charging handle) deal for $235. With shipping it was around $255. This was an important upgrade for me so that I had a free floating handguard build to increase accuracy. The full length of the handguard also left the rifle with a great look that reminds me of the Star Wars T-21 rifle.

For those keeping track, I have now acquired all the parts needed for an AR 15 except a BCG, charging handle, and some sights. This brought me to Amazon for some good deals. The BCG I got was $100 and seems to be of decent quality and seems to function properly. I did splurge a bit on the charging handle. I got a BCM Gunfighter charging handle. The cost of both of these items was about $145.

Last thing I got was a Vortex Strikefire 2 red/green dot optic. Because I get special pricing through several of my group affiliations I only paid $140 for mine. If you get this one through Amazon, it will cost you right at $179 if you have Prime.

The top rifle is the finished build. The bottom one is my wife’s with all sorts of addons and goodies.

New build on top

New build on top

To summarize my total cost of build – $670:

  • Total lower costs: $135
  • Upper costs for free floating handguard/barrel no BCG or charging handle: $250
  • BCG and charging handle: $145
  • Optic: $140

For anyone building this from scratch it would be an additional $100 for this optic and the other lower receiver parts that I had.

Now as a point that must be addressed, I did find complete lowers for $199 at a local gun shop. This would mean that you could actually get a complete rifle done for $500 to not include your optic. This is how this works:

The costs of this build is actually cheaper than you can get an M&P Sport AR rifle. The Sport doesn’t have a forward assist and has an A2 front sight post. It does come with a flip up rear sight, but the MSRP is $739.00. Again, building the AR like I propose is much less costly and already gives you several upgrades from the onset.

Good luck if you decide to do your own build. It is quite fun and fulfilling to know that you literally built your own rifle from parts!

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